Iwaya Ryokan, Kiso Fukushima

In Kiso-Fukushima, we stayed at the Iwaya. This was the most expensive of our lodgings and it wasn't worth it. Y32,700 for 2, including dinner & breakfast. It can be booked online:
http://www.japanican.com/en/hotel/detail/5454002/?ar=20 or fax them at 81 264 22 2117.

The Iwaya is located in a modern building, 10-15 minute walk from the train station.

The room was large and we had our own bathroom.

Dinner was huge

Hotpot included

Soba noodles

Grilled mountain trout

Braised vegetables

Mountain vegetables

Miso Soup

More vegetables

And, finally dessert

Onsen on the top floor.

Wash station before getting in the onsen.

Breakfast the next morning--not quite as expansive as dinner.

Omelette & small piece of salmon

2014 05 21

Tsumago to Kiso-Fukushima

Today was Day 5 on the Nakasendo. The route from Tsumago to Kiso-Fukushima was 24 km long and took 6 hours. It was a beautiful walk but unfortunately, it rained all day.

We left the inn at 8:15 am. The town was atmospheric in the early morning with no visitors yet and the gentle rain added to it. It was 1 1/4 hour hike to Nagiso, where we bought our picnic lunch.

Momotsuke-bashi, a wooden footbridge suspended across the Kiso River in Nagiso.

We took the alternate route through the Ne-no-ue Pass.

From here, it's an hour descent to the Nojiri station.

We arrived in Nojiri at 2:15 pm. We caught the 3:08 pm train from Nojiri and arrived in Kiso Fukushima at 3:37 pm--ticket was Y410.

Kiso-Fukushima

2014 05 21

Shimosagaya

We stayed at the Shimosagaya in town. I was able to book it online at https://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/ryokan-single/?ryokan=Shimosagaya

Lodging in double room with dinner & breakfast for 2 was Y17,928.

From the main road, there are signs pointing to the inn.

Dinner

Fried cricket--crunchy with taste of the teriyaki coating. It wasn't bad.

Breakfast the next morning. We actually got scrambled eggs.

2014 05 20

Tsumago

Tsumago is perhaps the best preserved and probably the most attractive of the post towns.

The inhabitants have banned telephone poles, electric lines and vending machines from the main street, preserving the feel of the Edo period.

We arrived in time for lunch. There were many restaurants and we chose a soba shop--Tawara-ya. Soba soup--Y 750

Soba with Mountain Vegetables--Y 900

Gohei-Mochi--Y250. Rice ball coated with miso dressing and grilled. It's a traditional food of the area but not my favorite. I didn't like the mushy texture of the rice ball with the crunchy coating.

There are several museums in town but we chose to go to the onsen. There is a free shuttle bus from the northern car park that takes you up to Kisojikan, an onsen and tourist complex with views of the valley. The shuttle service is limited. We caught the 2:50 shuttle for the 10-minute ride to the onsen. We used the onsen for Y500 and then rode the 4:25 shuttle back to Tsumago.



2014 05 20

Magome to Tsumago

The route between Magome to Tsumago is the most popular section of the Nakasendo.

It's 7.7 km long and takes about 3 1/2 hours.

Breakfast at Magomechaya was at 7:30 am and we left at 8:40 am. We headed uphill. At the edge of town was a kosatsuba--an official proclamation board where shogunate posted rules and regulations.

View of the Kiso Valley at the edge of Magome.

Rest area just outside of town.

It was a very pleasant walk through shaded woods--there was a small uphill climb and many rest stops. Typical bear bell found on the trail. We were hoping to see a bear, so we didn't ring the bell.

A portion of the walk is along the highway.

After the Magome-toge (pass), you reach a teahouse beside the trail.

The owner invites you in to have a cup of tea and a snack and to leave a note in his journal. There have been visitors from all over the world. There's no charge for the tea and snack but leave a tip.

After the teahouse, you walk through woods and pass 2 waterfalls--O-dake 7 Me-dake.

Ishidatami paths through the wood.

Just before reaching Tsumago, you pass through O-Tsumago, a small hamlet just outside of town. It's another 15 minutes before you reach Tsumago.

2014 05 20

Magomechaya Minshuku

The Magomechaya Minshuku was in the center of town. It was one of the easiest minshukus to reserve because they have a website: http://en.magomechaya.com

The Magomechaya is located near the Tourist Information center.

Across the street from the minshuku is their dining room.

Dinner was at 6 pm--fabulous and filling. It included vegetable tempura, gohei-mochi, mountain trout, tofu, horse meat sashimi.

And, a hotpot with vegetables.

Breakfast the next morning. Salmon, salad, potato croquette, omelette & rice.

Lodging for two, including dinner & breakfast was Y17,064. Pay in cash.



2014 05 19

Magome

Magome is one of the most adorable post towns on the Nakasendo. It is in the Kiso Valley and is popular with tour groups. Situated on a steep hill, the town has been restored and most of the old homes have been transformed into shops, restaurants and period inns.

Main street of Magome with view of the Kiso Valley. 

Old Water Mill at the lower end of the town.

The town is packed with tourists during the day. Spend the night and you have the town to yourself beginning in the late afternoon.

The main road through town is pedestrian only.

School children returning home at the end of the day.

2014 05 19