Final Notes

Our trip to Slovenia and northern Italy was a fabulous trip. Traveling in early to mid September was perfect for this region. We loved Slovenia and hope to go back before it's discovered.

I try to pack light for all my trips but ended up bringing 3 pairs of shoes for this trip.

I needed a pair of hiking boots. A pair of Croc water shoes looked respectable enough for dinners and fortunately, a pair of sandals worked well for the rest of the trip.

We used these guides from Cicerone. They provided good details on the trails and how to get to the trailheads.

2016 09 16

Hisa Franko

My sister showed me a Netflix series called "Chef's Table," which featured Hisa Franko in one of its episodes. It's a destination restaurant and a bed & breakfast. Chef Ana is self taught and features local seasonal ingredients in her cuisine.

Hisa Franko is located outside of Kobarid, on the road to Italy.

The pink building houses modern rooms. The breakfast room is attached to it. The adjacent yellow house has simpler rooms and cost €90/night.

Dinner is in an upscale but non-stuffy dining room. You have a choice of a 5-course meal for €70 or a 9-course meal for €90. We chose to get the wine pairing. Interestingly enough, they charge you for the glasses that are poured. The wines weren't too expensive and cost €31 for 9 glasses.

Amuse bouche of Parmesan Crisp. This was served with Bjana Brut, a sparkling wine.

Barley Chips with Smoked Butter and Trout Roe.

Mussel with Parsley Oil, Tomato Gelee and Sour cream.

Marble Trout, Bay Leaf, Chestnut 3 Ways

For one of the courses, you had the choice of Rabbit Liver, Meadowsweet, Fig and Popped Buckwheat.

or Langoustine, Watermelon and Pimpinella.

Chestnut Soup, Chestnut Chips and Black Truffle.

Squid Filled with Lamb Sweetbreads, Caramelized Walnuts and Cave Cheese

Lagoon/Sea Bream, Grey Mullet, Clams and Cucumber

Wild Raspberries, Goat Cheese, Buerre Noisette

Walnut Meringue, 21-day Keffir, Pear in Camomille, Forest Honey and Polline Ice Cream

I was looking forward to this meal but must admit I was disappointed. The dishes weren't memorable. Some of the wines were good but there were also some very bad wines. I did not like the Mlecnik Chardonnay even though our waiter claimed it had won several awards. It was the most expensive wine of the evening at €9.20/glass. I'm not a Chardonnay fan but it also had an off taste.

Breakfast was included in the room rate. There was a bottle of delicious unfiltered apple juice at each table.

There was a table with all kinds of cheese & meats

There was another table with baked goods and fruit. I especially liked the plum tart.

Breakfast included eggs.

They have home-made jams and jellies. My favorite was the plum. I asked if they sold the jams and was given a complimentary bottle.

2016 09 09

Kanin Gondola

Just outside of Bovec is Mt. Kanin and a gondola. In 2013, there was an accident which rendered the gondola inoperable. Two cars plunged to the ground when the steel cable slipped. On the day of our visit, the gondola had just opened. Since it was the first day, there was no charge to ride the gondola. I guess test guinea pigs ride free.

The gondola ride took over 45 minutes to the top of the mountain.

View from Mt. Kanin, Slovenia's highest ski resort.

2016 09 09

Soca Valley

Coming out of the Vrsic Pass, you reach the Soca Valley.

On the left, you pass the Miner's Church of the Virgin Mary of Loreto near Trenta.

Looking back at the Julian Alps

The Soca Valley is absolutely gorgeous.

At several spots, you can walk out on a suspension bridge to view the Soca River up close.

The Church of St. Joseph in the town of Soca, just 5 miles beyond Trenta.

During WWII, an artist hiding out in the mountains filled the church with patriotic symbolism, including this painting on the ceiling of the church. It's St. Michael in Yugoslav colors with Yugoslavia's WWII enemies at his feet: the eagle representing Germany, the Wolf Italy and the serpent Japan.

Behind the church, the cross on the hill marks a WWI cemetery where 600 Austro-Hungarian soldiers  killed in action are buried.

At a small gravel lot on the left beyond the church, a sign marked Velika Korita Soce or Grand Canyon of Soca.

A little further, you'll find a barn housing a primitive, industrial telpher cable-car line, used mostly for logging.

After exiting the national park, you'll find the WWI Kluze Fort, which stands watch over the narrowest part of the valley leading to Italy.

After the Kluze turnoff, there is a gravel pullout on the left with a wooden hut. Hike on the gravel path 10 minutes through the woods to reach the Ravelnik Outdoor Museum. Here, you'll find original WWI fortifications.

2016 09 09

Izvir Soce

At Switchback #49, a road to the right leads to the Izvir Soce or source of the Soca River. 

From the Koca pro Izviru Soce, a hut where food is sold, it's a 15 minute hike to the source of the Soca River. The last bit is pretty steep and even includes a narrow ledge over the river. There are cables to help.

The source of the Soca comes from a cave. The water is a gorgeous blue.

After getting back to the hut, we had Cocktas. It's a Slovenian drink that was invented in the 1950s because Coca Cola was not available in Yugoslavia. The Cockta is not as sweet as Coke and has a citrusy flavor. There is no caffeine. I liked it.

2016 09 09

Kugy Monument & Mlinarica Gorge

We spent only 1 night at the Postarski Dom. I wanted to do Hike #8 to Sleme the next morning but my husband decided against it. It was described as one of the most beautiful hikes in the pass.

Instead, we drove down the Vrsic Pass, stopping at the Kugy Monument at Switchback #48. He's looking up to Jalovec, his favorite mountain.

 Dr. Julius Kugy was a mountaineer and botanist who was born in Italy but wrote books in German about alpine flora.

From the monument, we hiked down to the river and followed it to the Mlinarica Gorge.

It was a beautiful hike and not too strenuous.

2016 09 09

Walk #10--Mala & Velika Mojstrovka

After we checked into the Postarski Dom, we took a hike. We walked back to the main road and crossed it to start Walk #10 to Mala & Velika Mojstrovka.

After a very steep climb, we got a great view of the valley.

Looking at the next section of the hike, all I could see was scree. It was getting late in the day and I was too tired to continue.

After we got back across the road, we looked back at the hike. I was glad I didn't continue.

2016 09 08

Postarski Dom na Vrsicu

At the summit of Vrsic Pass, there is a parking area. A 20-minute hike up the hill on the left takes you to Postarski Dom na Vrsicu. It's a mountain hut that is part of the Alpine Club.

Postarski Dom is located at 1688 m. It's reported to have the best view of the Vrsic mountain huts. There is an up-close view of the Pagan Girl on the hike up to the dom.

The hut is open from the middle of June to Sep 30.

There are 36 beds and 11 rooms. You can get a private room for 2--€27/person or get a dorm bed. If you're a member of the Alpine Club, you get a discount. Bedding is included.

Showers are €3 each. Towels are an additional €0.50. No hiking boots are allowed inside the hut. Bring a pair of sandals to walk around inside.

View of Triglav from the dining room.

Half board included dinner & breakfast--€15/person. Dinner was 3 courses with Chicken Egg Soup for the first course. This was perfect for a chilly night.

Goulash with noodles. Big portion and filling but definitely not gourmet. The noodles were overcooked and the meat was tough.

Apple Streudel. This was quite good. Apples were cooked through but not mushy.

The next morning, breakfast included 2 eggs, ham, toast and coffee/tea.

If you're not a member of the Alpine Club, a better option might be Ticarjev Dom. It's situated right next to the road. 

2016 09 08