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Monday, December 7, 2015

Le Boat

We rented a "barge" from Le Boat. We picked up the barge from St. Jean de Losne, just 43 km from Beaune. We had the car so it was a 40 minute drive.


There is a train station in St. Jean de Losne but it is 2 km outside of town. If you arrive by train, you'll need to either take a taxi or arrange transportation from Le Boat. There weren't a lot of taxis at the station so it might be safer to pre-arrange transportation.


This was our barge--a 44 foot 2 cabin boat with an upper deck. We rented from Le Boat, which had a base in St. Jean de Losne. The boat cost $1866 for a week, including an early booking discount. Le Boat has "dynamic pricing." That means the price changes based on demand. When I made the final payment 2 months prior to departure, the rental was $200 less than what I paid with the early booking discount. Le Boat did not honor the lower rate. I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to book a boat, unless you are traveling in July or August, during peak travel times.

My other complaint about Le Boat is that they nickeled and dimed us for everything. We even had to rent seat cushions--$7 each for a week. Each bike was $63 for a week, wifi unit $63, Collision Damage Insurance $203. Instead of paying for fuel, you pay for engine hours. For our week-long cruise, we paid $305. If you want parking inside a fenced area, it was an additional $54. The agent told us they couldn't guarantee the safety of the car even if it was parked in the fenced area, so we just found a spot on the street. 

On a plus note, we had a very nice agent who did our check-in and the boat was very comfortable.


Galley with small stove and small refrigerator (it's the one next to the stove). There were plenty of dishes, pots & pans. We were given 3 dish cloths. There were no dishwashing liquid, sponges or paper products. We were given only 2 garbage bags for the entire week.


Dining area. The table opened up to a full table.


We were provided sheets, pillows and blankets. Also included were 1 hand towel and 1 bath towel for each passenger for the entire week.


The head was serviceable but there was only 1 roll of toilet paper. The shower had pretty good pressure. Since we docked in a marina at night, we didn't have to worry too much about conserving water. We could fill up the water tank every night.


You could either steer from inside the boat or go on the top deck to steer.

We arrived at the base around 1:20 pm, shortly after picking our friends up at the train station. We started the paperwork and were allowed to board our boat around 2:30 pm. We didn't pre-arrange and pay for early departure so we weren't given our orientation until 4 pm. Orientation was very basic. Fortunately, my husband had a lot of boat experience so he felt comfortable with the operations of a boat. We just wished we had more instructions on how to operate the locks but we quickly figured that out.

We had gone to a supermarche in Beaune to provision but apparently, there was one near the base as well. We could tell by the abandoned grocery carts near the dock.

The one thing I wished we had brought were clothes pins. They would've come in handy to hang things out to dry.



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Sunday, December 6, 2015

Beaune Market Day

Beaune's Market Day is on Saturdays. It winds its way through town, starting near the Hotel Athanor and goes all the way to the Hotel Dieu. There are over 150 stalls selling food, clothes,  household items and antiques.


Clothes, household items and antiques are sold at the edges of the market. We stepped outside our hotel and found the market.


The food stalls are centered near Place de la Halle.


Burgundy is known for Bresse chicken, the only chicken in the world with it's own AOC designation.  The meat is flavorful and tender. I didn't think I'd be able to tell the difference but there really is a difference. In order to earn the AOC designation, there are specifics on how much land each chicken roams and what it can be fed. Bresse chicken is about 3 times more expensive than a regular chicken--25 for a rotisserie Bresse chicken.


Bull sausage for c each. The sausages in France are amazing. It's too bad you can't bring them back to the states.


Olive stall selling all kinds of cured olives. I was surprised at how expensive they were compared to other items in the market.


There was a long line in front of the goat cheese purveyor. I have a rule when I travel. If there's a line in front of a food stall, I get in line. Sometimes, I don't know what I'm getting but I've never been disappointed by a food line.


Beautiful and tasty figs--€3.80/kg.



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Saturday, December 5, 2015

21 Bld., Beaune

Back in Beaune, dinner was at 21 Bld. I had made reservations the day before.


21 Bld is located at 21 Bld. Saint Jacques, along the ring road.


Amuse bouche of cream of carrot soup.


We each ordered the Menu Bourguignon for €28 for 3 courses. One of the choices for the 1st course was Cocotte d'Escargots de Bourgogne, Ravioles de Royan et Son Bouillon a l'Ail. This was very flavorful but it was a tiny starter.


Another option for the 1st course was Oeufs Fermiers en Meurette. Oeufs Meurette was a popular menu item in Burgundy. They're eggs poached in red wine. The description was not too appetizing but it was pretty good.



Bourguignon de Joue de Boeuf, Tagliatelles Fraiches. The beef was much more tender than the beef at La Table de Guigone and I prefer the tagliatelle over the potatoes, even if it's not as classic.


Pave de Sandre Poele, Sauce Beurre Blanc, Pommes Boulangeres. This was a delicious fish but then again how can you go wrong with a beurre blanc sauce?
'

My husband chose the cheese plate as his 3rd course--Assortiment de 3 Fromages Regionaux (Delice de Pommard, Epoisses et Citeaux).


I chose the Poire Pochee au Vin, Glace Vanille--pear poached in red wine with vanilla ice cream. The pear was perfectly cooked.



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Friday, December 4, 2015

Thursday Night Dinner

Here's this week's dinner at Flavor Bistro.


Sogliola Con Peperonata--Local Sole Served in Slow Cooked Peperonata Topped with Spicy Aioli, paired with 2013 St. Francis Winery & Vineyards Chardonnay, Sonoma


Quaglia Arrosto--Pan Roasted Quail Served with Green Lentils, Bacon, Escarole & Homemade Petite Gnocchi in Sugo D'Erbe, paired with 2012 Alexander Valley Vineyards Redemption Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley


Brasato Al Barolo--Slow Cooked Center Cut Short Rib Garnished with Butternut Risotto, Organic White Alba Mushrooms & Barolo Wine Sauce, paired with 2013 Bonny Doon Vineyard "A Proper Claret," California


Bomba--Italian Style Ice Cream Float, Vanilla & Chocolate Gelato, Espresso, Sweet Cream & Almond Gremolata, paired with 2010 Oberon Late Harvest Moscato, 
Napa Valley



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Thursday, December 3, 2015

Chagny to Beaune by Train

Chagny has much better train connections with Beaune. There are trains roughly every 30 minutes. Cost is €3.70 for the one-way ride. There are no ticket agents so you have to use the machine. Unfortunately, the machine takes only coins or a chip-and-pin credit card. Since we had neither, we relied on the kindness of an elderly couple who purchased our tickets with their credit card and then we paid them with euros.



Train station in Chagny.


Be sure to use the underground passage instead of crossing the tracks to get to the platform for Beaune trains.



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Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chagny

Meursault is the first large town you will go through on the bike route.


Hotel de Ville--a former 14th century fortress that was the setting for the French film "La Grande Vadrouille."


Close-up of the fountain with a typical tiled Burgundian roof in the background.


Chateau de Mersault offered tours and tastings of their wines.


The next big town was Puligny-Montrachet. Bronze sculpture of vineyard workers in the center of town.

The bike route ended in Santenay and was only 20 km from Beaune. The route was mainly flat and each town was only 10-15 minutes apart. This was at a very leisurely pace, stopping often to take pictures.

You can bike back on the same route to Beaune or take a train from Santenay. The schedule is limited from Santenay so we biked 5 km further to Chagny along the Voie Verte.


The Voie Verte followed the canal. There was a bike path right next to the canal and it was a tranquil ride. 



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Tuesday, December 1, 2015

Picnic in the Vineyards

We packed a picnic lunch for our bike trip. We purchased some items from Beaune and picked up other items along the way. 


We picked up foie gras here but if we had an apartment and access to an oven, I would have also gotten some of the escargot. You just need to heat them up.


Burgundy is known for gougere--savory cheese cream puffs. Delicious!


In Mersault, we found a small store that sold cheese


& salami. 


Here was our picnic. Along the bike route, there were tables off the path. Such a civilized way to bike.


Quiche, croissant, baguette & cheese.


Country pate.



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