Sightseeing Day 4

We woke up to another beautiful day in Rome--another great day to see the sights of Rome.

Ponte Sant'Angelo crosses the Tiber to reach Castel Sant'Angelo. This was built by Hadrian. In the Middle Ages, this was the only bridge that connected downtown Rome with the Vatican.

The bridge is decorated with 10 angels, each designed by Bernini and each bearing a symbol of the passion of Christ. This angel was one of 2 angels actually finished by Bernini and has the crown of thorns.

This angel carries Christ's garment with dice--Christ's garments were gambled away.

Castel Sant'Angelo was built as a tomb by Emperor Hadrian. It has served as a castle, prison and refuge of last resort for popes under attack (there is a passageway that connects the Castel with the Vatican). Today, it is a museum.

A statue of Hadrian used to top the Castel but he was replaced by the Archangel Michael in 590.

Chiesa di Sant'Agostino is a Roman Catholic Church, one of the first ones built during the Renaissance. It contains several important artwork.

Madonna del Parto by Sansovino.

Looking left of the nave, you'll find Rafael's fresco "The Prophet Isaiah" on one of the pillars.

I missed Caravaggio's painting "Madonna dei Pellegrini," which was considered scandalous because Mary had dirty feet.

We stopped for a cappuccino break at MargheRita, a cafe we passed. Be sure you have your cappuccino before 11am. After that, you'll be ridiculed. If you stand at the counter, your cappuccino is €1.20. Sit down and the same cappuccino will cost €3.50.

Our next stop was Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio.

The central black dome is fake. It's a flat surface painted to look like a dome.

The ceiling is a colorful fresco. If you don't want to hurt your neck, use the large mirrors.

In the right transept, you'll find the tomb of Pope Gregory XV.

The curtains carved out of stone are impressive.

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Pasta Imperiale

Our last stop for the night was near our Airbnb.

Pasta Imperiale is located at Via dei Coronari, 160. This was a takeout pasta place. Choose your pasta and your sauce.

I chose Strozzapretti, which translates into "priest strangler." It's an elongated pasta that is rolled. I paired it with Bolognese. The pasta and sauce were both quite good but I didn't like the cheese on top. It's a cheap meal at  €5.50.

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Frigidarium

Next stop was Frigidarium, a gelateria with a long line.

Frigidarium is located at Via del Governo Vecchio, 112.

I tried their fruit flavors--mango and strawberry and both were delicious. A small was €3.

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Barretta Pesce e Porchetta

Right next door, we saw porchetta! It was the size of a whole pig.

Barretta Pesce e Porchetta is located at Via del Governo Vecchio, 90.

We ordered Il Classico--€5. It was just bread and Granieri pork and it was too dry. It needed a sauce.

We also ordered Assisano (porchetta, arugula, tomatoes and balsamic glaze)--€7. This was a little tastier.

They made Le Origini 1916 in error and gave it to us gratis. This was porchetta, caramelized apples, raisins and mustard. This was the tastiest of them all.

The best porchetta supposedly comes from Ariccia and Frascati, two towns about a 20 minute train ride from Rome. Next time, we'll venture out to try their porchetta.



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Two Sizes

We had planned to eat at Armando al Pantheon but there was a miscommunication about our reservation and it turned out we didn't have any. It did smell good and we'll have to reserve at least 2 months in advance next time.

We went on a hunt for dinner and found a line outside Two Sizes. When it comes to food, I can't pass up a line so I got in it.

Two Sizes is located at Via del Governo Vecchio, 88.

Turns out they sold tiramisu. I got large Pistacchio and Caramel--€3.50 for the large and €2.50 for the small. The pistachio was reportedly rated #1 on TripAdvisor and the caramel was also recommended. I found the pistachio was okay and the caramel too sweet. I liked Pompi's tiramisu better.

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Napoletano's

The rain stayed away and it was perfect to sit in the Piazza Rotondo facing the Pantheon to enjoy an aperitif.

We chose Napoletano's. Touristy yes but what a view!

With our bottle of wine, we also ordered focaccia--€7.

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Sopra Minerva & Pantheon

On the way to the Pantheon, we stopped at the Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva.

It's the only Gothic church in Rome and it houses a Michelangelo sculpture "Christ Bearing the Cross." Originally, Christ was naked but counter-Reformation censors added a bronze cover. No pictures are allowed inside.

Outside, an Egyptian obelisk sits on a Baroque elephant by Bernini.

The Pantheon is one of my favorite buildings in Rome. The original temple was built in AD27 by Emperor Augustus' son-in-law Marcus Agrippa--hence the M Agrippa L F Cos Tertivm Fecit (M Agrippa son of Lucio 3 times consul made this) on the pediment. After a couple of fires, the structure was rebuilt by Hadrian in AD120.

Inside, the dome is impressive. It was the model for domes to follow, including Florence's Duomo, St. Peter's basilica and even the US Capitol. The dome is made of concrete and the indentations reduce the weight of the dome without compromising strength.

The oculus or opening is 30 feet across.

Today, the Pantheon houses tombs of important people from recent centuries. King Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of Italy, is buried here.

Across from him is his son Umberto I, the 2nd King of Italy. 

Rafael lies in a stone coffin to the left of the main altar.

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