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Wednesday, September 26, 2018

Biking to Chambord

Early the next morning, we left Amboise and drove 40 minutes to Blois. In Blois, we rented bicycles--€16 for the day. Our plan was to bike to Chambord, 20 km away. We figured it would take an hour each way.


We found the bike path along the river.


Great view of Blois' Cathedral.


Then, we wound our way inland. I must admit the paths were not well marked and despite Google Maps Offline, we did get lost a few times.


We found smaller chateaus along the way--this was Chateau de Grotteaux


and beautiful fields dotted with poppies.


We arrived in Chambord 2 hours later, just in time for lunch. There is a cafeteria, a small gift shop selling baguettes and pates and even covered picnic tables. We ordered a Croque Monsieur--€4.60 and got a jar of pate de canard au ceps (duck pate with mushrooms)--€5.45 and a baguette. Next time, we'll bring our own picnic lunch. We shared a picnic table with a French family. The son lives in Berkeley 1/2 the year and in the Loire the other half. What a great life!

There are also sit-down restaurants on site. 


Chambord is a huge chateau with 440 rooms. It was begun in 1519 by Francois I. Rick Steves calls it the "granddaddy of the Loire chateaux." Admission is €13.


The double-helix staircase (inspired by Leonardo da Vinci) dominates the interior of the chateaux. I remember visiting when I was in college and I took a picture at the same spot I took back then.


The ground level has reception rooms. It's a self-guided tour and it's not directional. You can wander wherever, which also makes it difficult to follow. Alternatively, take an English guided 1-hour for €5 or use a HistoPad for 1 1/2 hours of commentary for €6.50.


The first floor houses the royal apartments. 






There is a chapel across from Francois I's apartment. It's stark and not impressive. The Mona Lisa was temporarily stored here during WWII.


You can see the royal monograms on the columns marking the stages of construction--"F" and the Salamander for Francois I, "H" and crescent moon of Henry II, "L" and sunburst of Louis XIV.


Chambre de la Reine (Queen's chamber) belonging to Maria Theresa of Spain, the first queen of Louis XIV.


Chambre de Francois I


The Throne Room


Wander outside when you reach the top level.


You'll get a wonderful view of the grounds. Beyond the formal gardens, Chambord is surrounded by Europe's largest enclosed forest park, a game preserve defined by a 20-mile long wall. You can see how Chambord began as a hunting lodge.


If you have a bicycle, you can explore the grounds more easily.



2017 06 01

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